Is Organic Cotton Really Better? A Shopper’s Guide

Published July 5, 2023

Zoe Vanderweide

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When you see a garment with an organic cotton label—and the accompanying price tag—you might assume that it’s higher in quality and better for the environment than clothing made from conventionally grown cotton. And this may be true, but it’s not always that simple.

Discussions about organic cotton—and the cotton trade in general—tend to get complex fast, raising questions on topics like traceability, soil management, and authenticity. But you don’t need any special expertise to shop responsibly.

Here’s a primer on the subject, plus some practical advice about how to make high-quality cotton purchases and get the most out of them.

Organic doesn’t mean better, at least in terms of look or feel. “It’s a myth that organic cotton results in softer, higher-quality fabrics,” said Kavita Mathur, PhD, an associate professor at the department of Textile and Apparel, Technology and Management at North Carolina State University’s Wilson College of Textiles.

The quality and feel of a cotton fabric are mostly determined by the length of the cotton fibers. Extra-long staple cottons, such as sought-after pima and Supima, result in finished fabrics that are smoother, stronger, and more flexible than shorter-staple varieties. But extra-long staple cottons can only be grown in certain climates and conditions, and they’re especially difficult and costly to produce without the aid of synthetic pesticides and fertilizers (organic no-nos).

When clothing is made from organic cotton, chances are it’s from a short-staple variety. And shorter cotton fibers result in—yep—fabrics that are rougher and less durable. Also, because of the way that organic cotton must be harvested, it’s more difficult to create long, smooth, continuous yarn from it, so it can have a nubbier look and feel, said Robert Hutmacher, PhD, an extension cotton specialist and professor emeritus of cooperative extension at the University of California Davis. That nubby texture is a compromise you may or may not be willing to accept.

If compromise isn’t your thing, it is indeed possible to find cotton that is both organic and pima—but since organic cotton accounts for less than 1% of cotton grown globally, and organic pima is even rarer—it’s expensive. For example, an organic pima T-shirt from Rag & Bone will run you about $115; our favorite sleep romper from our guide to the best pajamas, the Lunya Organic Pima Romper, costs about $168.

In many regards, organic cotton is a lower-impact crop than conventionally grown cotton. Significantly, there are the potential benefits of eschewing synthetic herbicides and other pesticides. And studies suggest that organic farming could contribute to better soil health, especially if regenerative farming practices are used.

Organic cotton crops typically produce a lower yield than their conventional cotton counterparts. The New York Times estimated it’s about 28% less on average; the lower yields are also the reason for the price differences. So in order to supply the same amount of material as a conventional crop, said Mathur, “Organic cotton can require more land, water, and energy, which eventually causes higher greenhouse gas emissions.”

It’s a bit like robbing Peter to pay Paul, explained Daniel Sumner, PhD, a distinguished professor of agricultural and resource economics at the University of California Davis. “It’s a matter of trading off two different areas of impact,” he said. “The negative environmental effects caused by pesticides and fertilizers are lower for organic cotton. But organic cotton will have larger land and water footprints per bale, because of lower yields.”

Of course, in order to accurately assess the ecological impact of a cotton garment, you must first determine its origins. “You need to know how the cotton is grown—from which country, and which farm,” Mathur said. But unless you’re buying traceable cotton, like Supima and other cottons grown in the US, getting that information is often not possible.

Beyond that, the credibility of certification practices in the organic cotton industry has come under scrutiny. In 2022, The New York Times reported that much of the so-called “organic cotton” exported from India—the world’s largest single producer of the crop—may not be genuine.

With so much room for confusion, consumers can be left feeling disempowered and uncertain. But you can use some simple, proven strategies when it comes to buying and caring for cotton clothing.

If you’re buying organic cotton, look for the GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard) label—the gold standard for organic cotton certification—or Textile Exchange’s OCS (Organic Content Standard). (Getting fake organic cotton is still a possibility, but those labels are the most legit.)

And keep an eye out for certified organic cotton that’s been grown in the US. “The organic label is generally used legally and appropriately by US growers,” Sumner said. (Note: The US accounts for only 2.8% of global organic cotton production, so it’s still relatively rare.)

For the greatest transparency into the source of a garment, consider purchasing traceable cotton. A growing number of brands are now offering traceable cotton clothing, which provides a full accounting of the journey from farm to mill to manufacturer, all the way to the retailer.

When you buy better, you can buy less over the long run. Garments made from extra-long staple cottons like Supima and pima—like some of our favorite women’s white T-shirts—are particularly strong and durable.

By the same token, be wary of cheap organic cotton offerings. Organic cotton is costly to grow properly, so “if it’s too good a bargain, I would want to investigate further,” warned Hutmacher.

Launder garments correctly to prolong their lifespan. For the lowest ecological impact, wash in cold water and skip the dryer: Air-drying uses less energy and is also easier on fibers.

Resell or donate clothes that are still in good shape, turn old duds into bar mops or craft projects, and recycle any textiles you can’t use. We have advice on how to do it.

This article was edited by Ingela Ratledge Amundson and Jennifer Hunter.

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